I have a bit of a reputation among my climbing partners as the guy
who loves to kick steps. Call me crazy,
but it’s true! You’ve heard of being “in
the zone”? That’s exactly where one goes
when one achieves the transcendent rhythm of kicking step after step, leading
the way up a steep snowfield or couloir, breathing in synchronization with each
step, and ascending almost effortlessly in a zen-like state.
I was in that zone on a recent climb (up Drift Peak’s west
ridge in shin-deep snow), feeling as if I could climb all day, and I tried to observe exactly how I was climbing so that I might share a few tips on
the art of kicking steps up a couloir.
For me, the key is establishing an efficient cadence, which
goes like this:
·
Kick-Rest-Push; Kick-Rest-Push; Kick-Rest-Push; repeat . . .
- Start by kicking a step. If the snow is not very consolidated, press
down on the snow slightly to compress it a bit.
- Next take a brief “micro-rest”. This accomplishes two things: 1) it allows you, very importantly, to
achieve valuable rest as you climb (note American Alpine Club CEO Phil Powers’ essay on “The Art of
Slowing Down”, which was recorded for the NPR series “This I Believe”: http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=5316322),
and 2), it allows the snow underneath your step to set, so that hopefully you
and your team that is following will be able to push up on the step without
much further compression of the step. The more the snow compresses as you step up, the larger the loss of both energy and elevation with each step, and a larger number of steps will be needed to complete the climb (this is largely out of one's control and depends mostly on snow condition, though route finding may help).
- Next, use the step to push yourself up smoothly and firmly, and follow through by smoothly kicking the next step to continue your cadence.
It is important – and quite natural – to synchronize one’s
breathing with one’s step cadence. For
me, I prefer to exhale as I push, when I am doing the most work. Remember to breathe deeply in order to use
most of your lung capacity and thereby facilitate the most efficient oxygen –
carbon dioxide exchange. Work your
diaphragm so you are filling the bottom of your lungs (if you are doing it
right you will feel expansion down into your belly area). I find that I naturally tend to hold a pause in my breathing after each exhalation, but when climbing, especially at altitude, I try consciously to pause instead after
each inhalation -- when the lungs are full -- again with the goal facilitating the O2-CO2 exchange.
Once I achieve the step-kicking rhythm and breath
synchronization, I tend to count steps and get into a cadence where I take a certain
number of steps / breaths (e.g. 20), and then a certain number of breaths (e.g.
3-5) on a rest step, for recovery (those numbers may vary, depending on the level of exertion resulting from the snow conditions, the altitude, and how you are a feeling on a particular day). Also,
you will work the movement of your ice axe (just prior to beginning the next
step while still “in balance”) into your step-kicking cadence and breathing
rhythm. It may sound a bit complicated
describing the process in words, but it will come naturally with a bit of practice
in the field.
A few other points:
- The snow conditions will determine how hard to kick. Ideally, the snow is soft enough to get at least your forefoot into the snow, so that your team behind you can more-or-less walk up nicely-formed steps, which is far easier than using French technique up a steep slope, and far, far easier than front-pointing.
- Remember to keep yourself and your team hydrated and nourished: even when you are in the zone, you are expending a lot of energy and becoming dehydrated, so replenish regularly. Ensure that everyone keeps water and snacks handy so that the team does not cool off during replenishment breaks. For me, Gu is the miracle gel that sustains me up a couloir, but of course you must determine what energy-replenishment method works best for you. I find that I need to ingest periodically a couple of electrolyte tablets when I am working hard on an ascent, in order to avoid muscle cramps later on.
- You won’t be able to sustain your step-kicking
cadence for long unless you are in good shape from following a regular fitness program
that includes both cardio and strength training. Another good training method is to get out
there and kick some steps – especially with some weight in your pack! The conventional wisdom on a climb is to let
the leader kick the steps and for the rest of the team to conserve energy by
following the boot track, and, in fact, forming a “paceline” (to borrow a
cycling concept) and trading off leads is certainly the most efficient way to
climb (although those who are in less fit condition should take shorter leads, or
defer leading altogether). On a training climb, however,
feel free to step off the boot track and kick your own booter in parallel, thereby
creating the opportunity both to practice step kicking and to achieve more of a
workout. Just be sure to leave enough in
reserve to finish the climb and not slow down your team significantly.
- When putting in a boot track, the leader must consider the height of her teammates and, more to the point, the step length that is comfortable for shorter teammates. Often leaders need to shorten their step length (height) to accommodate one or more of their partners (your partners will appreciate it if you speak up and ask for their feedback). It’s very enervating and uncomfortable for a shorter climber to have to take larger steps than they would normally. Some leaders may feel that since they are doing most of the work, and since fewer steps will require less energy, it would be best to establish a longer step length, as they prefer. However, I have found that usually the tradeoff between kicking more steps vs. making larger steps falls in favor of more, shorter steps being much more efficient -- even for the leader. And, of course, it is in your best interest to accommodate the abilities of your teammates, thereby achieving an overall faster climb. The only exception is when the snow is unconsolidated such that shorter steps tend to collapse into each other . In this situation, one is required to kick steps that are slightly farther apart, and often wider apart (and a longer rest may be required after kicking the step to give the snow more of a chance to set). In the worst case, for unconsolidated snow that won’t set at all, it may be best for everyone to kick her or his own steps; however, if there are long sections of such snow, the team must be sure to assess avalanche danger, as well as the feasibility of completing the climb in such adverse conditions.
- As you climb, note where in the couloir the step-kicking is good, and how the snow tends to appear in those areas. Then adjust your ascent route accordingly. If you hit an area where you begin to flounder in unconsolidated snow, use your axe to test the firmness of adjacent areas, or move laterally in search of better snow.
- Sometimes using a crawling motion with hands assisting is a more efficient way to move. On less steep snow, hiking poles may allow you to move more efficiently.
Hope that helps!
John Martersteck
